Metallic, flake and solid color systems poured by hand onto concrete that has been ground open, repaired and primed first. Garages, shops, showrooms, patios and commercial slabs, from San Antonio, Austin and Central Texas.
An epoxy floor is built in layers, and the layer you can see is the last one to go down. The slab is diamond ground until the pores are open, cracks and joints are cut and filled, a bonding primer seals the concrete, color or flake goes into the resin while it is still wet, and a clear topcoat locks all of it in. Miss one of those steps and the floor lifts at the edges inside a year.
Every epoxy and resin floor is poured by an owner of I Do Floors & Co. The person who walks your garage and prices the job is the man running the grinder and pulling the squeegee, so nothing is handed to a rotating crew halfway through the week.
Copper, silver and pearl pigment suspended in clear resin and moved by hand while the coat is still open. The pattern is decided on the floor, in the moment, which is why no two metallic pours match and why nobody can hand you a sample that shows exactly what yours will look like. It is the deepest of the three systems, the most work to lay, and the one people take photos of.
Vinyl color chips broadcast into the wet coat, then sealed under a clear topcoat. The chip gives the surface a little texture, so the floor grips underfoot instead of turning slick, and it hides the dust and tire marks that show up on a plain gloss floor. Dozens of blends to choose from. If the garage is actually used as a garage, this is usually the right call.
One even color rolled out wall to wall and sealed under a high gloss clear topcoat. The gloss throws the ceiling light back into the room, so a dark garage or a back shop reads twice as bright once the floor is finished, and the whole surface wipes down with a mop. It is the cleanest looking of the three and the one that shows a showroom or a display space off best.
The most requested epoxy job there is, and the one that punishes bad prep fastest. The slab gets diamond ground, oil-soaked spots and cracks get cut out and filled, then the system goes down wall to wall. Hot tires, dropped tools and spilled oil are exactly what the floor is built to take.
Shop floors, warehouse bays and back-of-house areas where the concrete takes traffic, dropped stock and constant cleaning. A bigger slab means more grinding and more repair before any resin is opened, so the schedule gets built backwards from when you can hand the space over.
A gloss floor is doing lighting work as much as flooring work. It picks up the ceiling lights and hands them back to the room, which is why showrooms and collector garages lean on solid color under clear. It photographs well, it wipes clean, and the space reads finished the second someone walks in.
Metallic is pigment and hand movement, so the colors can be pulled toward whatever the room is built around. Bring the paint, the cabinets or the car it has to sit next to, and the owner will work the pour to match it rather than picking off a chart and hoping.
Epoxy is not a garage-only product. The same systems go down on patios, pool decks and commercial floors. If it is concrete and it is in Central Texas, call and the owner will come look at it.
Almost every epoxy floor that fails, fails at the bond. The resin never gripped the slab, because the concrete was still sealed, still dusty, or never opened up before the primer went on. Here is the order every epoxy job follows, and none of it gets skipped to save a day.
Diamond grind the slab to strip old coatings and sealer and open the concrete so the primer can key in.
Chase out the cracks, fill the pits and joints, then grind the repairs back flush with the rest of the floor.
Pull the grinding dust off the profile. Anything left sitting on the concrete becomes a bond breaker under the resin.
Roll a bonding primer into the open concrete to seal it and lock the system down to the slab.
Metallic pigment or color flake goes into the resin while the coat is still wet. This is where the finish is decided.
A glass-clear topcoat goes over everything for gloss, depth, and the wear and chemical resistance that keeps it.
Most residential garages and rooms take two to three days from the first pass with the grinder to the final topcoat. The concrete needs time to cure between coats, so the work is not rushed into a single day to make a schedule look better.
Grind, repair and clean. The slab is opened up, cracks and joints are filled, and the dust is pulled off the profile.
Prime and build. The bonding coat goes in, then the pigment or flake is broadcast into the resin while it is open.
Topcoat and cure. The clear goes down, then the floor is left alone and kept clear while it hardens.
You can usually walk on it the day after the final coat, and park on it after a few days of full cure. Commercial slabs run longer, because there is more concrete to grind and more repair to do before any resin is opened.
We work out of San Antonio and Austin and cover the Central Texas stretch between them. Garages, shops, showrooms and commercial rooms. If your address is in either city or the towns between them, the answer is most likely yes. Call and we will confirm it and book your free estimate.
One of our two home bases. San Antonio garages, shops and showroom floors, ground open and poured by hand.
Price depends on the square footage, the condition of the concrete, the finish you choose, and how much repair the slab needs before coating. Metallic floors cost more than flake or solid color because they take more product and more hand work. Every quote starts with a free in-person estimate, so you get a real number for your space, not a guess online. Call (210) 201-3112 to book one.
Most residential garages and rooms take two to three days from grind to final topcoat. The concrete needs time to cure between coats, so the work is not rushed. You can usually walk on it the day after the final coat and park on it after a few days of full cure. Commercial slabs run longer, because there is more concrete to grind and more repair to do before any resin is opened.
Metallic epoxy carries copper, silver and pearl pigment that moves through the clear resin and never repeats, so it suits the room you want people to notice first. Flake broadcasts vinyl color chips into the wet coat for a tough, slip-resistant, easy-to-clean surface, which is the workhorse for a garage that gets used. Solid color under a clear topcoat is the cleanest and brightest of the three. The owner walks you through which one fits your space at the estimate.
A floor peels when the resin never bonded to the slab, almost always because the concrete was sealed, dusty, or never opened up before the primer went on. We diamond grind the concrete, fill the cracks, and bond the system to the slab so it does not peel. The strength comes from the prep, not from the shine on top.
Yes. The diamond grinder strips the old coating and any sealer off the slab before anything new goes down. Stripping an old floor adds grinding time to the job, so it is worth mentioning when you call, so the estimate accounts for it.
Yes. I Do Floors & Co coats residential and commercial floors, including shops, warehouse bays, showrooms and back-of-house areas. Larger slabs mean more grinding and more repair before any resin is opened, and the schedule is built around when you can hand the space over. Call (210) 201-3112 to walk the space.
Tell us the space, the shape the concrete is in, and the finish you are after. Someone answers, books the walkthrough, and the owner prices it standing on your slab. A floor cannot be priced from a photo.
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Tell us the room and we will get you a written estimate. Takes about a minute.